ROLLER

@slug @Krauerking there are some out there. Can’t say I looked to closely but I wasn’t terribly impressed.

@Krauerking my opinion is no. For many things you can find a model on line. Much of the challenge can be getting the printer to work as you wish, so modelling might not be first on the to do list.

@WolfLink @papalonian yeah, something like this but you might try. MS 3D Builder is out is still around our even good old Meshmixer!

Alternatively you could try adding a plane and extrusion this downwards on blender, Meshmixer etc

@nautilus @dlatch this conversation degenerated quickly…

@bdonvr you’ve probably heard this before… But magnetic PEI build plate is the best adhesion I’ve had.
Used glass on my CR10S but it’s night and day vs PEI on the ender 3 S1 plus.
Keeping it clean is key but copious quantity of IPA and a very light sand has worked so far.

@CarbonAlpine Amazing model. Did you publish anywhere? I’d like to print for a full size mock up horse I made.

@MissJinx there are a few but some are just rebadged versions of other slicers. Prusa/Orca and Slicer are two I have tried.

@MissJinx I’ve had issues with some slicers not coping with vase mode.

Did you try changing the vase mode settings?

Some models don’t work so well on vase mode. Usually with steep overhangs.

You might try a different slicer?

@andyspam this may be of some use. The YouTube channel I liked. https://auroratechchannel.com/

@AlexanderTheGreat have you tried 3D Builder on windows?

I’ve found it to be complimentary to Meshmixer. It has a nice combine function to simplify complex models.

@AlexanderTheGreat it’s old and cranky, but Meshmixer is still something I use.

Let’s you split and combine as well as align

https://meshmixer.com/

@RegalPotoo @Wilshire good point. Release agents are used for casting concrete. They look to be oil and water mix so I’m guessing most plastics would be compatible.
Also has to be a clear path out for the print/concrete.

@LazaroFilm glad I didn’t bother learning this then…

@FearTheCron @YourAvgDuckHead According to encyclopedia Britannica, I’d say a fairly reliable source, your out by a factor of 100. https://www.britannica.com/science/chromosome
A human blood cell is approx 10 micron long, according to this… https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2998922/
Apologies for the pedantry, I couldn’t help it.

@PeleSpirit @topinambour_rex yes, you can. With a dual extruder printer. Or if pause the printer mid way through and change the filament, is recommend using a printer with filament detect, it should move to the side so your prints don’t get damaged by the hotend.

@Piecemakers3Dprints @CaptainFlintlockFinn as a one time chemist I’d agree that there is a real possibility some trace materials in the resin causing some harm in prolonged contact. The resin may be set but could potentially leach some of the other materials such as unreacted ingredients, catalysts etc. In the same way that cheap jewellery can release alloying metals that cause irritation. A dermatologically safe varnish seems a sensible call.

@CaptainFlintlockFinn are those resin support marks? If so you could try reorienting your model to reduce the number of supports needed. Possibly experimenting with the number, spacing and thickness may get better results. I’m no expert but have found it helps sometimes.

@charmed_electron oh and proper personal protective equipment is must. I use decent mask that will remove solvents from sir.

@charmed_electron printer type and size depends on what you want. Consider the software to use on it, printers may only like some slices. I’ve found FDM and Resin printers to be complimentary. I’d agree with person about getting a suitable space. I use my loft, getting a place away from you main living space is needed. Temperature is an issue but settings can account for some of this.
I think of my FDM printer as mechanical tool to build things. My resin printer feels more like cooking!

@PeleSpirit good luck. I didn’t regret it. Been lots of fun!