<TLDR> • Experience: none • Size: > 20x20x20 cm • Price Range: 800-1500€ • Print Medium: PLA </TLRD>

Hi all! I would like to join the group of 3D printer owners but I don’t have any experience. I don’t want to buy a cheap printer just to find myself buying a better one in a few months so I set my price in the middle segment (I think).

I am going to set it up in my office which has AC but direct sun light for some hours a day. Is a full case recommended?

What printer can you recommend for me and what software (windows) can I use to design and print some parts?

If you need any more info please let me know.

Kind regards in anvance

  • canthidium@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    If you want something to just print without tinkering, the new Bamboos are what’s hot right now, but if you want to learn and tinker with 3D printing, I wholeheartedly recommend Prusa. I followed 3D printing for years before finally deciding to buy one and I got a Prusa MK3S+ early last year and it has been a workhorse. So much so that I just bought a 2nd one a few months ago. You can buy the kit for cheaper and put it together yourself and you’ll learn a lot about how they work. I’ve got tons of mods done to mine plus a printed enclosure for one and I’m working on the 2nd one. The main selling points for me is they are open source and Prusa the company and owner are really involved in the community.

    They also run printables.com which is a huge repository of print files. Also Prusaslicer is their slicing software that works great. Lots of people use it even without Prusa printers. They can be finicky at times, but I think that’s all printers really. Good thing about Prusa is everything is replaceable or printable and aftermarket mods are plenty. (Revo nozzles especially if you like to switch nozzle sizes often). I just like how open they are and how heavily involved in the community they are. That means so much more to me than a “just works” printer. If you do go with Prusa, they just came out with the MK4 which has lots of improvements. I’m also planning on picking up the XL sometime when I have extra monies. Shoot me a DM if you want to chat about it.

  • GoldenSpamfish@lemmy.zip
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    1 year ago

    in that price range you can get a bambulabs X1 carbon, which is an extremely high performance and high reliability machine. If you want to save a bit, the P1P is also really good.

    I am a hardcore custom printer guy who loves building everything themselves, but even I have to admire this machine.

    Don’t listen to people recommending ender 3s or anything creality, but prusas are also a good option, if a bit outdated.

    • TwanHE@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I like the X1 as a printer. But BambuLabs is not a company I’d want to support.

      • _cerpin_taxt_@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        I’m considering getting one for my next printer. What’s wrong with them as a company? I’m out of the loop.

        • CmdrShepard@lemmy.one
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          1 year ago

          I think the main issue with them is that everything is proprietary on the machines meaning little aftermarket support or user mods. Traditionally, most printers up til now have used generic parts that anyone can buy from 100’s of different retailers.

          • _cerpin_taxt_@lemmy.world
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            1 year ago

            Oh god lol I can’t imagine having a part need replacing on the fly and not being able to find a replacement at Micro Center. Big yikes lol.

            • GoldenSpamfish@lemmy.zip
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              1 year ago

              They do sell all of the components online though and at good prices. It’s not hard to get replacement parts. I’ve even seen Voron and ratrig people making mods to use bambulabs spare parts in their custom machines because they are way more affordable than comperable high performance parts from other sources.

              • TwanHE@lemmy.world
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                1 year ago

                There are also clone parts now. Which atleast should serve the purpose of being available when Bambulabs doesn’t have stock/stops selling them.

                I’ve been eyeing the hotend clones without the integrated nozzle as a nice lightweight option for a build that doesn’t require a that high flow hotend.

            • CmdrShepard@lemmy.one
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              1 year ago

              Haha just be grateful you live within driving distance of a Microcenter. I think I’d need to take a couple hour plane ride to be within driving distance of our closest store.

              • _cerpin_taxt_@lemmy.world
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                1 year ago

                Haha true that. I moved into my current place about a year and a half ago, and then decided to buy a 4080 a few months in. Imagine the delight on my face when I realized there was a Micro Center less than a mile away! I go there all the time for 3D printing stuff these days.

        • TwanHE@lemmy.world
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          1 year ago

          I’ll just list some I remember

          Their slicer has a fork called orca which included some nice extra features and calibration tools which work for all machines not just the Bambu ones. In the latest update of their slicer they just copied all the code from the fork but never mentioned the person that did all the work until they were publicly called out on it. Which seems to be a recurring theme.

          Also many functions of the printer are locked behind it being always connected to the cloud which has been proven to have multiple vulnerabilities. One of the most annoying is sending files over to the machine over wifi is linked to the printer having acces to the Bambu labs servers which have been experiencing some downtime lately. Meaning a lot of functions of the printer are only there as long as Bambu labs exists.

          • stumpagness@lemm.ee
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            1 year ago

            The X1C has the ability to run in local mode so that their servers are not required.

            • TwanHE@lemmy.world
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              1 year ago

              Yeah, but still need to download their app to set it up and the progress updates trough the app also don’t work without the cloud, even when on the same network. Also no webcam, because that needs to be routed trough Chinese servers to guarantee optimal Image quality and latency.

    • phrogpilot73@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I’ve got an Ender 3 V2 that I’ve upgraded significantly. I am also very interested in a Prusa Mk 4.

  • AvgCakeSlice@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    For your first printer I would recommend getting something you can build from scratch if you have the time. You’ll learn about all the different parts of a printer so you have an idea of what to do when something goes wrong. Prusas are great in that aspect as they have wonderful documentation and assembly instructions and it’s easy to buy replacement parts if you need it, plus they’re pretty low-maintenance once built. In your price range I think the MK4 kit would be a good option, just keep in mind that assembly can take upwards of 10 hours depending on how fast you go.

    However, if you want to buy something and just forget about it, one of Bambu Lab printers would probably be a better option. Their parts are more proprietary and you won’t get the same learning experience, but its dead simple to setup and use. (Not to mention incredibly fast).

    Either way, you’ll be getting a solid printer that should last you for a while, so have fun and be sure to post here if you have any more questions!

  • terawatt@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    FYI. The Bambu P1P is currently going for $599 USD. It’s a core xy , with impressive print speeds, with an upgrade path to a proven multi materials solution.

    Since you are placing it near an AC, you’ll need to print the side panels to partially enclose it. Lots of community upgrades available.

    Good luck.

  • stumpagness@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    Owning a Bambu P1P, I would highly suggest an X1 Carbon. I started on the cheap bed slingers and have now moved on and will never look back.

    • momentary@lemmy.ml
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      1 year ago

      I went from an Ender 3 to the X1-C and be never been happier with not cheaping out!

  • NiyaShy@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    Saw that you’re already considering the Prusa Mk4, and that was pretty much what I would have recommended for your price range. Prusa machines are not cheap, but once assembled they just work. But since Prusa has an open ecosystem and open-sourced pretty much everything, you have complete control and choice on what software you want to use to accompany it, and you also can mod the printer to your liking if needed.

    The Bambulabs printers some others mentioned are different in that they are a closed ecosystem. You get the printer as-is with very little playroom for modifications and the software side (slicer) is AFAIK also pretty locked down to what they ship with the printer.

    For the slicer, as mentioned it depends on the printer. If you go with Prusa, pretty much any slicer will work. To name a few, PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, Cura…
    If you go with Bambulabs, (AFAIK) you’re restricted to using their slicer.
    For designing your own models, there’s also a plethora of programs available you can use for free. Be it CAD programs like Fusion 360, SolidEdge, OpenSCAD, FreeCAD, modelling software like Blender, or many many more.

  • xman080@sh.itjust.works
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    1 year ago

    I didn’t try many printers / software to commend you recommendt one but I can say that I have used creality CR-10S and had 0 problems with it. I use Cura software because it supports Linux but it works on windows too

  • rambos@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Whatever you chose I would make sure it supports klipper firmware. It is super growing and popular open source project and it can be installed on most of them.

    For slicer, I use Cura because im lazy to get familliar with others, but dont worry about that you can always swich to another slicer whenever you feel like

      • rambos@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        I dont think so since you need something like raspberry pi or pc connected to printer, but most of them will support it and it depends on printers main board. I havent been buying printer for years, so not rly usefull sry

    • rambos@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      Ah, slicer is used to prepare gcode for a printer, but you cant create 3D model in slicers. You need 3D modeling software like blender or CAD like solidworks. Learning 3D modeling is slow process, but there are loads of free models online. Check thingiverse or printables

      • p1mrx@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Learning 3D modeling is slow process, but there are loads of free models online.

        I learned how to use Fusion360 a couple months ago by asking GPT-4. The key is to start with an object you want that’s simple enough to describe, and ask lots of questions.

  • melkore@lemmy.iwentto.science
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    1 year ago

    What is your use case for the printer? That might help inform your decision.

    A Prusa is a pretty safe pick and more or less fire and forget from what I’ve seen.

    I have older printers that are reliable after numerous upgrades (including a new board and adding auto-leveling) for larger parts and a resin printer for detailed stuff.

  • TooL@lemmy.ca
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    1 year ago

    Before I can recommend anything, I have to ask you some questions.

    Are you wanting a printer that you will spend more time tweaking and modifying than actual printing? Or do you want something that just works right out of the box?

    Do you care about it being open source and upgradeable?

    What’s your price range?

    Do you want to print miniatures and other fine detailed objects?

    • MBitter@feddit.deOP
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      1 year ago

      I don’t mind spending some time tweaking the printer but I would tend to it should work!

      Open source and upgradable would be great.

      Price range is 800-1500€

      I don’t know exactly what I’m going to print but it would be more functional than beautiful I guess ;)

      Currently I think I will by a Prusa MK4 maybe even as a build kit.

      • TooL@lemmy.ca
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        1 year ago

        Yea, the prusa Mk4 is a great option for you, but honestly even an mk3s kit might be worth looking into. Save a bit of money and you can always buy the upgrade kit to the mk4 later down the line of you deem it necessary.

        If you want a printer working straight out of the box and don’t care about it being closed source, I cannot recommend the p1p enough. it has been night and day change from my last printer. literally just set it and forget it.

        I would definitely steer clear of the ender 3s or other i3 style clones. You spend 95% of your time trying to tune and fix your printer instead of actually using it.

        Also, since you don’t care about printing anything other than pla, you shouldn’t need an enclosure. with any of the mk3s, mk4, p1p, or x1c you are going to be able to print pla and petg perfectly fine with minimal tweaking.

        • melkore@lemmy.iwentto.science
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          1 year ago

          I have two i3 clones and fully agree the first month or so was just tweaking the machine and printing parts to improve quality.

          My Monoprice Duplicator i3 Plus from 2017 is still going after a LOT of tinkering. My Anycubic Chiron is more or less stock for better and worse. The z-wobble on both is about that last thing I need to do for quality improvements but I’m lazy.

      • visualfeast@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        My Prusa MK3S is a workhorse, and putting the kit together was a blast! It’s so nice to focus on designing and printing things without worrying about the hardware. Sure there will be issues and learning curves to get past but you’ll learn so much very quickly.

  • SaveComengs@lemmy.federa.net
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    1 year ago

    I think something like an Ender 3 is sufficient for your use case.

    I use a Prusa i3 MK3s+ and I love it, but Prusa printers are expensive and you can get more value from things like the Ender 3. If you want to go Prusa, you can get the Prusa mini.

    Also, I’ve never had a problem with having my printer next to a window, maybe filaments degrade faster that way but I don’t really know.

    I use Blender for making models, and PrusaSlicer for slicing those models to send to my printer.

    I don’t think Blender is a good choice for 3d Printing but I just use it because I know it.

    I highly recommend Prusaslicer though, and it works for a lot of non Prusa printers like the Ender 3.